Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
