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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.